
Installing wall panels is considered one of the simplest and most visually appealing ways to quickly transform an interior — whether we’re talking about elegant MDF panels, modern composite designs, or natural panels made from decorative natural cork. However, even the highest-quality material won’t deliver the expected results if the crucial preparation stage is overlooked.
The purpose of this guide is to highlight the key principles you should follow before attaching panels to the wall. Thoughtful surface preparation is what ultimately determines the visual outcome.
Table of Contents
1. Introduction
2. How to design the panel layout?
3. A “diagnosis” of the wall: what’s behind it?
4. How to prepare the surface?
5. Panel acclimatisation: how long should they “rest” before installation?
6. Trial fitting
7. Summary
8. FAQ
Planning is essential — how to design the panel layout?
Before you begin installation, you need to answer one key question: how will the panel arrangement influence the proportions and overall perception of the space? A poorly planned layout can distort the room visually, while a well-considered composition will emphasise its strengths.
1. Choose the installation direction
Horizontal, vertical, or diagonal? Each option creates a different visual impression:
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Horizontal installation visually elongates the room, giving it more breathing space — a great choice for narrow hallways and low rooms.
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Vertical installation makes the walls appear taller — ideal for interiors with low ceilings.
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Diagonal installation (e.g., at a 45° angle) is a bold choice often used in modern designs — it draws attention and adds dynamic flair.
2. Maintain symmetry and proportions
When planning the layout, make sure that panel division lines don’t clash with sockets, windows, lighting, or recesses. Otherwise, even premium panels may look misplaced.
It’s always a good idea to prepare a scaled wall drawing with marked divisions and potential cuts. For irregular walls or those with many obstacles, a 3D visualisation can be extremely helpful.
3. Allow for technical margins
During the design stage, anticipate areas where panels will need trimming. Avoid situations where a thin strip — for example, just 2 cm wide — ends up at the edge of the wall; it’s not only visually unappealing but also makes installation more difficult.
Professionals recommend planning the layout in such a way that edge panels have a similar width on both sides of the wall.
4. Consider the function of the interior
In a bedroom, you can opt for a more decorative approach, while in a kitchen or bathroom, practicality and material durability will be more important. The layout design should account not only for aesthetics but also for everyday use.
A “diagnosis” of the wall: what lies beneath?
Before reaching for a spirit level and mounting adhesive, you need to get to know your opponent — the actual condition of the wall. Even the best plan and most beautiful panels will be ineffective if the substrate is poorly prepared or, worse yet, hides structural defects.
1. Check load-bearing capacity and stability
The wall must be:
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Stable — crumbling plaster, cracks, or loose fragments are clear warning signs.
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Load-bearing — panels, especially heavier ones such as MDF, require a surface capable of handling additional weight without deforming or detaching.
Some walls (e.g., plasterboard constructions) may require reinforcement points or additional anchors.
2. Identify the wall material
What is the wall made of? Cement-lime plaster, gypsum finish, concrete, brick, or perhaps latex paint? Each material requires a different approach:
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Concrete and brick provide solid adhesion but may require priming.
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Walls coated with latex or oil paint may repel adhesive — they need to be roughened or the paint layer removed.
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Gypsum finishes are absorbent — without priming, they will draw moisture from the adhesive, weakening the bond.
How to prepare and clean the surface?
What may seem like a minor detail — the texture of the wall — can determine the success or failure of the entire project. Even the most expensive wall panels won’t hold properly if the substrate hasn’t been prepared correctly. And that means much more than just “wiping off the dust”.
1. Clean the surface — thoroughly, no shortcuts
Start by carefully cleaning the wall:
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Remove any loose plaster, dust, and debris.
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Degrease the surface, especially if the wall was previously painted with latex paint or is in a kitchen — use a solution with soap or a dedicated degreasing agent.
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Remove mould and mildew if present — don’t try to hide them behind panels, as the problem will return and get worse over time.
2. Level out any uneven areas
Panels are unforgiving of mistakes — especially when installed with adhesive. Even small irregularities can cause:
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panels to stick out from the wall,
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panel joints to shift out of alignment,
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adhesive to spread unevenly, shortening the lifespan of the installation.
You should therefore:
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Fill in any gaps, cracks, and fissures.
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Sand down protruding areas or rough texture — even if they “seem insignificant”.
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If necessary, apply a thin finishing coat.
3. Always prime the surface — no exceptions
Priming is a crucial step that should never be skipped. A primer:
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Strengthens the wall structure and reduces its absorbency,
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Improves adhesive bonding,
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Prevents the glue from drying too quickly, which could otherwise weaken the bond.
Panel acclimatisation: how long should they “rest” before installation?
One of the most frequently overlooked yet essential steps before installing wall panels is acclimatising them, meaning allowing them to adjust to the conditions in the room. Although it may seem unnecessary at first, this stage often determines whether the panels will stay flat and well-adhered for years — or start warping, peeling, or cracking after just a few weeks.
1. Why is acclimatisation so important?
Panels — regardless of type — are sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. During transport and storage, they are often kept in conditions very different from those in your home. Moving them abruptly into a heated or more humid room without preparation can lead to:
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the material expanding (swelling),
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shrinking or warping,
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reduced adhesion during installation.
2. How long should panels “rest”?
The acclimatisation time depends on the type of material:
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Panels made of decorative natural cork — at least 72 hours in the room where they will be installed.
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MDF, veneered, or laminated panels — typically, 48 hours is sufficient, although in the case of major temperature fluctuations, it’s worth extending this time.
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Panels made from plastics (e.g., PVC) — at least 24–48 hours, and they should also be kept away from direct heat sources.
3. Under what conditions should panels acclimatise?
The room should already have its intended operating conditions, meaning:
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a temperature between 18–24°C,
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relative humidity of 40–60%,
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no draughts and no damp patches on the walls.
Skipping the “test fit” — the most common mistake
Even if the wall is properly prepared, the panels have acclimatised, and the layout has been planned, it’s still wise to take one more step back and perform a trial installation. This additional stage only takes a moment but can save hours of frustration and prevent costly corrections.
1. Why bother with a test fit?
A test installation of a single panel allows you to:
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Check the real adhesion strength of the glue on the wall surface,
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Assess how strongly it bonds after a few hours — whether the panel holds firmly or begins to detach,
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Verify whether the material reacts negatively with the substrate or adhesive (e.g., discolouration, distortion),
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Confirm layout precision, especially if you're using a laser level or an installation template.
2. How to perform the test?
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Choose an inconspicuous spot or the lower part of the wall.
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Attach a single panel using the recommended installation technique.
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Wait at least 6–12 hours (or according to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions).
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Evaluate the result: is the adhesive even, is the panel flush, can it be removed too easily?
Summary
True quality and durability depend not on the installation itself but on everything that happens beforehand. Achieving a professional result requires far more than good materials — precision, planning, and respecting each stage of the process are essential.
It all begins with a well-thought-out layout that considers aesthetics, proportions, the direction of installation, and the function of the room. Next comes a thorough assessment of the wall — checking its stability, load-bearing capacity, and material type. Even if the wall appears even, without proper cleaning, levelling, and priming, it can ruin the final result. Equally important is the acclimatisation period, which allows the panels to adjust to room conditions. Skipping this step often leads to warping, detachment, or colour changes.
Finally — before permanent installation — it’s worth performing a test fit. A single trial panel can reveal more than any theory and protect you from mistakes that could otherwise be expensive and time-consuming to fix.
FAQ
1. Do all panels require acclimatisation?
Yes. Every material — whether natural cork, MDF, veneer, or plastic — reacts to changes in temperature and humidity. Skipping acclimatisation can result in deformation or detachment.
2. Can I install panels without priming the wall?
Technically — yes, but practically — it’s not advisable. Primer improves adhesion, stabilises the substrate’s absorbency, and prevents the adhesive from drying too quickly. Skipping this step often leads to problems that require later intervention.
3. Is it worth using additional fixings (e.g., dowels, battens)?
In most cases, high-quality adhesive is sufficient. Additional fixings are mainly used for very heavy panels or when installing on walls with poor load-bearing capacity (e.g., plasterboard). The final decision should always be made based on the technical condition of the specific site.

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